We always have that mindset that in order
to do something like this and that, you need to have the skills in order to do
so. But in reality, even if you have little to no skills at all, you can create
something as long as you know what you’re doing. The bonus part of that is you
can learn something in the process too!
When it comes to making your own pottery
tools, special materials come into mind. But in fact, even the ones you can
find at the heart of your own home can be improvised to make such tools. If
you’re a fan of DIY, then you’re surely going to love this article. Listed
below are an ample amount of ideas to create your own pottery tools by
yourself. Let’s dive in!
You can use white glue such as
Elmer’s glue to stick things together. This is because it doesn’t repel glaze
just like wax.
Have unused credit cards lying
around? Use them as ribs. Cut them into patterns to make contoured edges. Be
creative and cut whatever pattern you want depending on what tool you’re going
Have no wood stirring sticks
around? Cut lengths from PVC pipe to stir glazes. They work great for an
alternative and won’t rot easily.
Toilet bowl brushes is a great
tool to mix glazes too. Not only that, but also toiler plungers too!
Have a visit to your local
fishing and hunting shops and buy some cheap animal tails. They are great to be
used as hand brushes. Chicken and bird feathers also work best too!
No need to use expensive power
equipment just to sharpen your tools. You can use a cheaper commercialized one
or you can make your own from cone 10 porcelain rods.
Wax and petroleum jelly are
best used to slow down drying of a specific area, for example, a rim.
Use cornstarch to prevent clay
from sticking to your tools, canvas, and the like. Apply a thin coat of
cornstarch before carving or making designs to prevent burrs and marks that are
made from pulling the object off the clay.
A squeegee or a paint scrapper
works well to smoothen a slab surface and eliminate canvas marks.
Metallic glazes like overglazes
and raku glazes tend to oxidize over time. To prevent this, use silver polish
or a concentrated lemon juice to clean them. Dry them under the heat of the sun
to reduce oxidation.
Use empty shoe polish bottles
for stain or oxide solutions.
Unleash your creativity by
using a popped popcorn to add texture to clay for hand building.
A painter’s canvas can be used
as a wedging surface if you don’t have one.
Add a little amount of bleach
to a slip or recycled clay mixture to get rid of mold and odor. Don’t forget to
wear gloves when handling bleach.
Who needs plaster to make molds
when you can make one on your own from bisque. Heat the bisque at high
temperatures to make it durable and fire it a little low to make it porous
enough to make the clay dry.
Clay recycling is probably one of the most
daunting tasks every ceramic artist has to face. However, it is actually necessary.
Because it is important that no drop of clay is wasted so that we can use it
for later. Saves you a lot of cash too if you do so, unless if you have a pug
mill to begin with.
Collecting & Storing Clay
A heavy-duty container is needed since clay scrap and trimmings are heavy. Find a wheel mechanism where you can put your container so you can maneuver it around your studio. Place a framed screen on top of the container. This is important since the framed screen breaks down the scrap clay into pieces, making it usable for later.
When you’re done making your masterpiece, dump your throwing slop and any kinds of scrap into the container. Use a metal dustpan and your hands to collect scrap clay on the floor if you want to use them too.
Once the container reaches the top, decant the water. As long as there is water over the layer of clay in the recycle bucket, the clay scraps will break down into tiny pieces and will become thoroughly saturated. If there are lumps or dry material in the slop, the resulting reclaim will have hard and soft spots. The water will do its job without the need of mixing the clay in the bucket.
The scrap clay you’ve collected
needs to be dried out first before reprocessing it for later use. Listed below
is a step-by-step instruction on how to do it.
Spread a thin layer of at least
2-inches or so of scrap onto an absorbent surface.
Plaster bats, wedging tables
and large plaster slabs are good choices for this. “HardiBacker” Board is a
material that works well for this. It is a heavy cement board that is not as
effective as plaster but is strong enough to absorb moisture from the clay.
Flip the clay slab over from
time to time and continue to do this until it is right for wedging.
Store drying bats on a vertical
rack or ware cart to save space. A fan can also help dry wet clay quickly. This
will accelerate the drying, so turn the clay frequently.
There is also an alternative method
where you can use a rudimentary filter press system that’s made from cotton
pillowcases. What you need to do is fill the sacks with clay slop and hang them
over a bucket or just simply hang them outside. The water drips out from the
sack and evaporates from the surface.
To apply a glaze to a bisque ware more
easily and quickly, simply mix a glaze powder with water. It’s that simple!
However, we are going to tear that down into more detail. This includes:
measuring water, mixing the glaze powder with water, the sieving process,
adjusting its viscosity and density, and more.
Before we start, it’s important to follow
the instructions that came with the glaze set especially if it’s a premixed
powder one. There are two types of glazes that you can purchase: Dry glaze and
premixed. The former is specially formulated for dipping and pouring, while the
latter is formulated for brushing.
Let’s assume that the instructions said
that you have to mix the dry glaze with water. In case you’re not using a whole
batch of premixed powder, make sure that it is mixed well before taking a part
of the powder to mix with water. It’s also suggested that you should keep the
glaze suspended in water for a few moments to improve its brushability.
Mixing Glaze Safely
Powdered glaze is the most
dangerous form of glaze since it creates dust that can be inhaled easily.
Glazes contain toxic chemicals so once inhaled, the last thing you’ll see is
waking up in a hospital. So to avoid such situation, it’s important to wear a
face mask or a respirator while handling glaze. Also, use rubber latex gloves
and don’t put your fingers, eyes, nose, and mouth near the glaze while mixing
it. Safety goggles are advisable too for extra protection.
Materials to Use
Here are the materials you will
be needing when mixing glaze:
Sieve that has the appropriate
mesh for your glaze
Instructions on Mixing Glaze
Each glaze has its own way of
mixing. What we’re going to show you below is the basic way of mixing it. But
feel free to try and experiment things as long as you know what you’re doing.
Measure the Proper Amount of
Water for Your Glaze – measure water inside a clean container that’s at least
25% more than your glaze’s volume. This applies for dry glaze since premixed
glaze already tells you on the instructions how much water to use. Keep in mind
that every glaze is different and the amount of water to be used may vary.
Add Glaze Powder to Water – There
are two ways to apply this step. Either you add the powder glaze to the water
or water to the glaze powder. You can add a little amount of water each time
until you get the right amount of it. You can pour the glaze into the water
with no stirring needed.
Mixing the Glaze Powder and
Water – Thoroughly mix well the glaze to avoid problems when applying it later
on. Use a stick, toilet brush, or a whisk to mix the glaze. You can also use a
handheld drill and attach a turbo mixer, or a simple paddle to mix the glaze. Should
you need to mix smaller batches? Use a kitchen blender for easier convenience.
Pour the Glaze into a Sieve – Even
though you already mixed it well, there will be small lumps on the glaze that
aren’t completely mixed with water. The solution to this is to use a sieve to
eliminate such lumps. Sieves come in different mesh sizes and it’s important to
choose one that suits your glaze. However, some glaze instructions will tell
you not to sieve the glaze. It’s up to you if you want to follow it or not.
Checking its Density and Viscosity
– Glaze needs to be on its right density and thickness. Because if it is too
thick or too thin, you will have problems applying it later on. Some people use
other types of liquid as a base to measure the thickness of a glaze. For
example, cream, heavy milk, whole milk may be used as a comparison for glaze
thickness. If you have a glaze hydrometer, you can use that to measure its
Adjusting its Density/Viscosity
– Adding water is a must if you think that the glaze is too thick or thin. Add
little amount of water from time to time until you get the right formula. If
the glaze is too thin, let it sit overnight and scoop some of the water that
rises up. You can alternatively add more dry powder if you had one.
Let it Sit for a While – After
mixing, let the glaze sit for a while before you put it into use. Leaving them
for a moment makes the particles in the powder to soak up the proper amount of
water. Do a final check on the viscosity or density of the glaze to make sure
it doesn’t get thick overnight.
Mix and Apply – Lastly,
stir/mix the glaze before applying it to bisque ware. Constantly mix the glaze
throughout the process. Monitor the density and thickness of the glaze from
time to time because bisque tends to suck up extra water as they are dipped. Now
that you’re done, store the glaze in an airtight container and make sure to
label it so your friends or family won’t mistake for water or something. Jot down notes about its density and thickness
every after use so you will get consistent results the next time.